Owners describe all three of these as the dryer not working, but they point in different directions. Establish which one you have before anything else, because the checks diverge immediately.
Nothing At All: No Lights, No Response
Look at the power supply first. An electric dryer normally sits on a double breaker, and losing one leg gives odd behaviour rather than a clean off. Switch the breaker fully off and back on. Check the cord is properly seated at the outlet. If the machine is on a switched socket, confirm the switch has not been knocked. A dryer that repeatedly trips the breaker should not simply be reset over and over, because the trip is doing its job.
It Hums but the Drum Does Not Turn
Switch it off at the breaker and try turning the drum by hand. A drum that spins freely with no resistance usually means a broken belt. A drum that will not move at all suggests a seized roller or motor. Either way, stop using the machine, because running a motor that cannot turn its load overheats it.
It Starts, Then Stops Part-Way
- Door catch: a worn strike or a slightly sprung door lets the switch open as the drum rotates. Check the door closes with a positive click and does not rattle.
- Overheating from poor venting: the machine reaches a limit, shuts off, restarts once it cools. Clear the lint filter, the hose and the wall duct.
- Restart behaviour: note whether it restarts on its own after a rest, which is a strong pointer to a thermal cut-out rather than a switch.
- Control lock or delay: check no child lock or delay-start option is set, especially after cleaning the panel.
What Needs a Technician
Start switches, door switches, thermal fuses, motors and control boards all sit behind panels carrying mains voltage, and on gas models near the burner. If the supply is sound, the door closes properly and the vent is clear, book a Maytag dryer repair and describe the behaviour precisely: dead, humming, or stopping after a set time. That sentence alone usually decides which parts come along.