What F3 E0, F3 E1, F3 E2 or F3 E3 Means
Maytag publishes F3 E0 and F3 E1 as a possible problem with the oven temperature sensor, the control, or the associated wiring, F3 E2 as the oven temperature sensor or a warming drawer sensor where fitted, and F3 E3 as the oven temperature sensor or its wiring without naming the control.
Common Causes of F3 E0, F3 E1, F3 E2 or F3 E3
- Oven temperature sensor out of tolerance
- Sensor bent against the cavity wall by a heavy tin
- Sensor connector loose
- Wiring damaged behind the oven
- Warming drawer sensor failed where fitted
🔧 One Safe Check You Can Try
Press Cancel to clear the code, switch the oven off at its breaker for a minute, restore power, and start a bake cycle to see whether the code returns. With the cavity cool, check the sensor probe at the upper rear is secure and standing clear of the liner - on a wall oven used mostly for roasting, a heavy tin sliding on the top shelf is the usual thing that bends it. Measure the real cavity temperature with an oven thermometer during a bake, because a number is worth far more to a technician than a description of how the food came out.
⚠ Why You Shouldn't Go Further Than That
- A wall oven is built into cabinetry and hard-wired, so it has to be unfastened and drawn out of its housing by a technician before anything inside can be reached.
- Let the cavity cool completely before reaching inside.
Opening a panel to inspect or repair something yourself doesn't automatically cancel your manufacturer's warranty — but it can risk accidental damage, and some manufacturers do have specific service conditions. Check your product's warranty terms, or ask us, before deciding.